As
night falls at the end of another perfect day, St. Ives comes alive - with
bars restaurants and cafés to suit every pocket and every taste in a
truly cosmopolitan atmosphere.
As well as its tradition of fishing, St. Ives is world famous
as an art centre and studios, shops and galleries are everywhere. The Tate
St. Ives, part of the Tate Gallery in London, was opened in 1993 and is,
perhaps, the flagship of Cornish art. The Gallery's inspirational building
stands high above the magnificent surfing beach of Porthmeor and features
exhibitions which represent the modern 'St. Ives School' of painters such
as Peter Lanyon, Patrick Heron and Sir Terry Frost as well as a changing
programme of other contemporary work.
Also part of the Tate Gallery is the Barbara Hepworth Museum,
a lasting memorial to the great sculptress who lived and worked in St. Ives
at her Trewyn Studio. Her workshop has been carefully preserved and the gardens
and house contain many examples of her work and some of her finest pieces.
A
mild climate, warmed by the gulf stream and almost frost-free winters makes
it possible to grow plants and shrubs normally native to semi-tropical countries
hundreds of miles further south. Take a leisurely walk along some of the miles
of coastal footpath, or perhaps take the opportunity to visit by branch line
train along what has been described as one of the most spectacular railway
journeys in Britain as the track hugs the edge of the cliff in a spectacular
feat of Victorian engineering. Enjoy the view across to Godrevy Lighthouse,
immortalised by the novelist Virginia Woolf, or take a short boat trip to watch
seals basking on the rocks in the sunshine. St. Ives has something that will
appeal to everyone, young or old.
The
old town is a maze of narrow cobbled streets, lined by fishermen's cottages,
many with the original steps to the first floor doorway. The ground floor would
have been an open cellar housing fishing nets, boats and pilchard presses.
Steep sloping passageways and secret corners conceal unexpected delights at
almost every turn. St. Ives during the summer months is a blaze of colour.
Radiating from the harbour, its maze of narrow cobbled streets are filled with
flowers - not particularly surprising for a town which regularly wins the 'Britain
in Bloom' competition.
This is St. Ives, one of the most famous holiday towns in Cornwall
- a jewel situated at the south-western tip of this island kingdom yet readily
accessible by road, rail and air.
Today, as for centuries before, life centres around the harbour
where fishing boats still moor alongside granite piers, their catch being
sent around the world and earning an enviable reputation for its quality
and variety in some of the finest restaurants.